A skincare routine is highly personal, as your skin type is as unique as a fingerprint. This uniqueness means that not every product will be suitable for everyone. Incorrect or poor-quality cosmetics often cause skin problems by disrupting the crucial skin barrier. For example, individuals with oily skin types might overuse products containing harsh substances, causing their skin to dry out and leading to more problems.
However, bad cosmetics aren't the only threat to our skin barrier. The natural skin balance is also regularly disrupted by various negative factors such as poor air quality, blue light exposure from screens, daily stress, sleep deprivation, excessive sun exposure, hormonal fluctuations, and an unhealthy lifestyle. It's therefore essential to maintain the skin barrier's balance, but why is this the case?
Understanding the Golden Trio of the Skin Barrier
Your skin, which covers nearly two square meters and constitutes over 16% of our body weight, is our largest organ. It is composed of three layers: the hypodermis, the dermis, and the epidermis. This discussion primarily focuses on the epidermis, which consists of a "holy trinity" that determines skin health:
1. The Stratum Corneum
The outermost layer is known as the stratum corneum. It comprises dead cells arranged in rows with layers of skin lipids in between, acting as a kind of adhesive. This layer functions as our skin barrier, protecting us from harmful external influences by keeping bad microorganisms, toxins, pollutants, and irritants at bay.
2. The Acid Mantle
The stratum corneum is covered by a slightly acidic mantle of sweat and sebum. This mantle provides natural nourishment and maintains an ideal acidity - or pH value - between 4.5 and 5.5. This pH range is crucial for the proper functioning of enzymes, which ensure the natural renewal of our skin cells and the elimination of fungi and harmful bacteria. Deviations from this pH range can lead to dry and flaky skin, as well as hinder the natural production of the "glue" in the stratum corneum.
3. The Microbiome
The acid mantle hosts around eight million microbes per cm², known as the microbiome or skin flora. These microbes ward off harmful invaders and strengthen the natural skin barrier.
An imbalance in this "golden trio" - the stratum corneum, acid mantle, and/or microbiome - indicates poor skin health. Disruption of any of these three can lead to annoying ailments that can also interact with each other. For instance, an overly alkaline acid mantle can lead to microbiome problems, as good bacteria cannot flourish in such an environment. The deterioration of our acid mantle also hinders the production of the "glue" that holds dead skin cells in place in our stratum corneum.
How to Restore Balance to the Skin Barrier?
Unfortunately, there's no simple answer to this question. As explained above, several factors determine the health of the skin barrier. I strongly advocate a holistic approach and do not consider cosmetics to be the cure-all solution for all skin issues. However, I do believe that good-quality cosmetics can play a significant role in maintaining healthy skin. While bad cosmetics can cause substantial damage, good-quality ones can help restore the skin barrier's balance.
'Good cosmetics' are those packed with pure ingredients that support and restore the skin.
All nourist products are formulated with a focus on the 'holy trio': the epidermis, stratum corneum, and microbiome. They aim to balance these key skin components and are especially beneficial for sensitive, irritated, or acne-prone skin. To identify the best nourist products for your needs, take our skin quiz.